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Un locale dallo stile che fa molto “vecchia Milano”, quella autentica. Il richiamo alla tradizione si fa chiaro fin dall’ingresso, dove è esposto un autentico velocipede. E poi muri a volta, mattoni a vista e antiche colonne in pietra, attrezzi di cucina d’epoca, che creano un ambiente suggestivo. L’anima del locale è duplice: c’è la vineria, salendo pochi gradini dalla scala d’ingresso; e qui vale la pena di fermarsi per un aperitivo e spiluccare stuzzicanti assaggi (ad esempio quelli di pesce affumicato e marinato). Scendendo invece la scala si arriva al ristorante.

Lo chef ha stilato menu incentrati sulla cucina tradizionale lombarda, resa attuale da tecniche moderne e un tocco d’innovazione, che non guasta. A pranzo il menu è snello e incentrato su proposte veloci - immancabili le insalatone miste - e preparate al momento: ad esempio l’hamburger gourmet Dogana Burger, primi piatti (anche vegetariani) o secondi alla griglia. La sera la proposta si fa più articolata: c’è il menu degustazione Tradizione Milano o vari “fuori carta” che cambiano in base alla stagione. Oppure si può scegliere dal menu à la carte, che enumera specialità come l’Insalata di nervetti, la Lingua di manzo o Oeuv 82 (crema di uovo cotto a 82°C in nido di porro). E ancora, secondo la stagione, Zuppa di cipolle, Pasta e fasoeu, l’immancabile Risotto alla milanese in tre varianti canoniche: l’originale, al salto o con l’ossobuco in gremolada. Fra i secondi, la particolare Zigogna, piatto valtellinese che consiste in uno spiedo di manzo avvolto con lardo e servito con patata al cartoccio e burro alle erbe. Nel repertorio, immancabile la Cotoletta con patate al forno e l’invernale Cassoeula. L’anima enologica del locale è spiccata, per i vini la scelta è molto ampia e vale la pena di farsi consigliare dai sommelier del locale, che la sanno lunga sul migliore abbinamento con i vini in cantina (oltre 400 etichette, fra cui i grandi produttori e un’importante presenza di vini biologici e biodinamici).

Scritto da Marina Bellati

Milanese, giornalista, si occupa di gastronomia e ristorazione da vent’anni, collaborando con testate quali Ristoranti, Bargiornale, La cucina Italiana, Grande Cucina, Dove, Libero. Cura la stesura di libri dedicati a cucina e pasticceria.

INSIDER tip

L’anima del locale è duplice: c’è la vineria, salendo pochi gradini dalla scala d’ingresso; e qui vale la pena di fermarsi per spiluccare stuzzicanti assaggi (ad esempio quelli di pesce affumicato e marinato). Scendendo invece la scala si arriva al ristorante.

Restaurant menu

Chef's recommendations

Average price €45 Special request

Scores & Reviews

Excellent
9.2/10
based on 528 reviews
Only customers who have gone to the restaurant after booking on TheFork can make a review.
Food :9.1/10
Service :9.3/10
Setting :9.1/10
  1. Julie N.
    • one review
    10/10

    This place was delicious! I highly recommend it for both romantic ambiance and amazing wine and food. The waiters recommended wine for each of our courses and they were all perfect

  2. Michelle H.
    • one review
    10/10

    One of our best meals while touring through Italy. Very interesting and unique dishes for antipasti and primi courses. The “traditional” thick cut veal chop was incredible.,The atmosphere was very rustic and charming. And the service was spectacular.

  3. Andreas H.
    • one review
    10/10

    The service was excellent as well the food. Definitively a place to go.

  4. Sue D.
    • one review
    10/10

    Excellent customer service, beautifully presented Milanese cuisine and a good wine list. A true gem of a restaurant.

  5. Manuel P.
    • 6 reviews
    9/10

    We was 9 person and we ordererd various kind of food that we wanted to share each other. Waiters was so kind to divide every portion and served all in a lovely way. We had 2 guest with us that speak english and waiters managed it very well to explain every dish. Good quality, center location and price.

  6. Emiliano R.
    • 2 reviews
    10/10

    Really good food (my colleague was enthusiastic about his vegetarian choices), excellent service and wine list, good atmosphere. Really enjoyed it.

  7. Bunny S.
    • 7 reviews
    10/10

    We shared a first plate of risotto with osso bucco which was excellent. The second plate of Milanese Cotoletto was also great. The wine recommendation was lovely. They gave us complimentary starters and biscotti to end with. A lovely dinner. Wish we'd known the portions were going to be that huge, though, because we'd have ordered just one course to share. Felt bad about wasting half the second course...especially because it tasted so good! Restaurants should give some indication of the size of the dish, maybe by mentioning the weight.

  8. Karen S.
    • one review
    10/10

    Fabulous local food and charming, helpful staff.

  9. Deirdre C.
    • one review
    4/10

    Food was tasteless, service poor. The starter was served before we even got a wine list.

  10. Derek S.
    • one review
    10/10

    Definitely one to visit in Milan!

  11. A. S.
    • 103 reviews
    8/10

    Buono e genuino come sempre

  12. Davide L.
    • 9 reviews
    10/10

    Really recommended!

  13. Alessandro R.
    • 2 reviews
    10/10

    I really liked it and all friends of mine think the same. Service was perfect, nothing to add. The sommelier was really helpful and helped us in finding the perfect wine for the dinner, also taking into account our preferences.

  14. Angelika r.
    • one review
    8.5/10

    All was well

  15. Federico D.
    • 19 reviews
    10/10

    Top

  16. Choo H.
    • 3 reviews
    10/10

    very good local food

  17. Heidi B.
    • one review
    10/10

    Fabulous waiters. Wonderful food.

  18. Joseph H.
    • one review
    10/10

    Had the cheese selection and the zigogna/skewer and both were excellent. Portions are extremely generous. They also brought some complementary whitebait and a selection of breads, and offered a complementary liqueur at the end. The whole experience felt like a real insight into Milanese cuisine. The service was excellent and they were sure to explain what each bread and cheese was and where it came from. Only slight drawback was the wait for the cheese, but they were apologetic and it was definitely well worth the wait. Would heartily recommend.

  19. Carmine C.
    • 3 reviews
    9/10

    Beautiful restaurant with fantastic staff who pay attention to detail. Traditional cuisine which although can be seen as simple, is executed to perfection.

  20. Junior M.
    • one review
    6.5/10

    Service was professional and welcoming. One small hiccup which makes you wonder: I asked for a glass of a 2004 Barbaresco wine, which was on their menu by glass. The somm. (I suppose) asked if he could suggest something else to try, which I agreed. But when I declined his suggestion and requested my first option, he stated he didn't have the 2004 Barbaresco (by glass). Como??? Regarding the food: We had the mozzarella-like cheese with truffles, tradition risotto with saffron, Tortelli pasta stuffed with cheese, and a fish special that belongs to the tuna family. With the exception of the Tortelli, which was good, everything else was bland. Even the bread was ok; it felt and tasted stale. Before departing, however, they did offer a small glass of grappa or other drink (don't remember what) on the house, which was very considerate.

Practical information

Opening time

Pranzo: dal lunedi al sabato dalle 12:30 alle 14:30 (eccetto la domenica)

Cena: dal lunedi al sabato dalle 19:30 alle 00:30 (eccetto la domenica)

How to get to the restaurant

Via Molino delle Armi, 48, 20123, Milan, Italy

Public transport

Autobus 94.

About the restaurant

BUON GUSTO - In via Molino delle Armi a Milano, il ristorante La Dogana del Buongusto è cucina e vineria. Conduce ogni ospite nei sentieri dell’ottimo gusto grazie a una dinamica e appassionata squadra di cuochi e di sommelier.

PIATTI TIPICI - La cucina propone una grande varietà di preparazioni per lo più tradizionali. Si può iniziare con i ricchi taglieri di salumi, le insalate, i piatti unici oppure spaziare nei vari primi e nei secondi di carne. Molte sono le ricette tipicamente milanesi e non mancano proposte per vegetariani o senza glutine.

OTTIMI VINI - La vineria è poi la soluzione ideale per uno spuntino o un aperitivo di qualità alla scoperta dei tanti vini di qualità proposti.

Services

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